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How much Router Table should I buy?
Items
·        Basic
·        Mitre track and T-track
·        Sliding tables, raised panel
·        Inserts  plain,deluxe, aluminum
·        Dust collection
·        Large verses bench
·        Space saving extensions
Intro
Buying a router table can be a confusing experience.  Which one do you need?  Which
size, how many features do I really need?  What’s the difference between tables?  In this
article we will discuss features to look for and tables you can eliminate in your search.  
Keep in mind , most people think they should have more table than they really need.  
This is usually the same case for routers.  So what are the features out there?  Lets take
a look.
Features

Router tables come in many basic packages.  You
usually can find router tables in two basic sizes,
benchtop and full size.  Benchtop tables are usually
purchased because the user has a lack of shop
space.  Benchtop tables can be stored under
workbenches and still handle a variety of chores.  
Most are made of metal or aluminum but they are a
few wooden ones as well.  Lets take tables in
general and discuss features and break them down
into their basic components and then talk about the
pros and cons of each.
Tops
Made of Metal, wood, MDF, plastic, Phenolic
Inserts
Not all tables have inserts.  Inserts are made so that you can attach the router to them
and then install the insert into the top.  This is so that bit changing is made simple.  
When you want to change a router bit you pull the router and insert together up through
the table and change your bit.  If you table has no insert you have to attach the router
directly to the top thus making bit changes more difficult since you would have to remove
the router from the top to change the bit.  Insert can be made of Phenolic (acrylic or
aluminum)
Miter slots
Miter slots are an advanced feature.  They can be used for a variety of things.  The
most common use is for a coping sled to slide along the mitre slot .  The coping sled
gives the user a very stable platform in which to cut stile and rail joinery for raised
cabinet doors.  Cutting these cuts without a coping sled or mitre slot is very difficult and
somewhat dangereous.  You can also use a miter gauge to fit in the miter slot.  There
are also several feather boards that fit in standard mitre slots.
T-track
T-track is very popular on router tops because it gives a way for router fences to be
held down and adjusted on the router top.  They are usually milled into the top and
are flush to the top.  T-track can also be installed on the fence front face to be used
in conjunction with stop blocks.  Here is an example of
T-track.
Dust Ports
Dust ports on router tables are very handy to keep the table clean while working.  You can
usually find them in 3 basic sizes.  Shop Vac, 2 ½” and 4”  Shop Vac sizes obviousely are
designed to fit shop vac attachements.  These are not popular and you will not find many
of these.  The standard dust hoses are 2 ½ and 4”.  Ports that fit these two sizes fit
standard dust collection systems.  Once you have dust collection attached and
operational on your system, you will wonder how you lived without it.  It is a definite
advantage.  Click here for
dust ports.
Starting pins
Starting pins fit in router inserts and are generally used to help start wood onto the bit
when free hand profiling on a table.
Table thickness

  • Generally the thinnest tables are aluminum tables.  The increased strength of the aluminum
    lends itself to being thinner thus lighter.  

You can find MDF tables in a variety of thickness.  They are ¾” 1 1/8” 1 ½ and 2”
  • ¾” thick tables are the standard thickness of store bought MDF.  
If you buy one of these tables make sure both sides of the table are laminated.  This prevents flexing
of the top and throwing it out of true flatness.  MDF is a great material because it is very flat.  

in seasonal areas such as the Midwest,  I would recommend having both sides laminated.  But in
seasonal areas such as the Midwest,  I would recommend having both sides laminated.  But this is not
always necessary.  Also if your hanging a big heavy 3 HP router on the top, you might consider
lamination on the bottom.  Again it depends on what your doing.
might consider lamination on the bottom.  Again it depends on what your doing.


  • 1 ½” thick tops are very heavy duty.  The need for lamination on the bottom is futile since
    these tops are so thick.  If the MDF is glued together (two ¾” pieces) the stability is increased
    due to the gluing process.  MDF is small particles glued together and form into perfect tops,  
    Making them thicker decreases the chance of any flexing or warping of your top.  The
    one draw back is that they are heavy.  But with heaviness comes stability.  Ask anyone that has
    a heavy cast iron table saw if they love the stability that comes with it and you may not leave his
    shop for a while until he tells you all the great things about it.  

  • 2” thick models are even thicker and are just as stable as their 1 ½ inch counterparts.  Again
    more weight.  

Worth mentioning is the way that all three of these tops are edge treated.  Most manufactures add a
edge treatment with a T-molding.  This is a rubber edge that is glued around the edge of the table.  
The manufacturing process of this treatment is simple thus making it widely available.  T-molding is
installed by a shallow rabbit routed around the perimeter of the top.  Then the molding has a small
tenon that fits into the rabit or groove routed into the table.  Some people argue that this weakens the
top.  It really depends on the thickness of the top  On thinner tops I can see how the argument has
more value.  On thicker tops, the argument does not go far.

By far the best looking edge treatment is real hardwood.  Not only does it look excellent, but it adds
more rigidity to the top itself.  Having a nice thick ¾ “ of hardwood around the edge is also handy if
you ever want to attach something to your table.
Fences
There are two schools of design on fences.  Fixed one piece fences and split fences.
Each have their advantages and each have preferences to the woodworker.
Fixed Fence

holds the dust port in the ideal position to collect dust.  The profile bit determines the
holds the dust port in the ideal position to collect dust.  The profile bit determines the
distance of the wood to the edge of the bit.  A good example of this would be a roundover
distance of the wood to the edge of the bit.  A good example of this would be a roundover
distance of the wood to the edge of the bit.  A good example of this would be a roundover
distance of the wood to the edge of the bit.  A good example of this would be a roundover
bit which cuts a round over on the edge of a board.  Here is a good example of a
fixed
fence.fixed fence.fence.fixed fence.fixed fence.fence.fence.fixed fence.fence.fixed
fence.fence.fence.fence.fence.
Split fences

needing the flexibility of and adjustable fence.  You can use the split fence with profile
needing the flexibility of and adjustable fence.  You can use the split fence with profile
bits as well.  You can now use your router table as a jointer.  This is now growing in
popularity, but it is limited.  If you were interested in this application, you would need a
split fence UNLESS you had a fixed fence that was solely dedicated to being a jointer
fence.  This would mean you would need two fixed fences which is fine.  
You can see split
fences hereYou can see split fences herefences here
Stop blocks
Stop blocks are handy to have if your routing material that has to stop at a certain point.  
I find this feature nice but not necessarily essential since I can clamp any piece of scrap
wood to a fence and thus create a cheap replica that functions the same.
So now you have all these features lets look at some of the common sizes out there

Benchtop
Larger Benchtop
Full Size
Advanced
Benchtop Router Tables

have at least 12 inches from the bottom on the insert to the table.  This allows for have
at least 12 inches from the bottom on the insert to the table.  This allows for greater
flexibility of router sizes.  You generally don’t use big 3 HP routers on benchtop tables.  
tables.  
Larger Benchtop Router Table

Usually measure 15 x 24 and have more features.  They are more heavy duty to
standard benchtop sizes.  They can have the ugraded mitre slots and t-tracks or be
plain.  These heavier tables can accomidate any size router.
 (kits can be found here)
Full size Router Tables

more features.  You can find both types of fences on full size tops.  Full size tops usually
more features.  You can find both types of fences on full size tops.  Full size tops usually
sit on a wood or metal base.  Look for a good stable heavy design.
Click heresit on a
wood or metal base.  Look for a good stable heavy design.
Click hereClick here
Advanced

These are usually tops that are designed with special purposes.  You can find horizontal
tables, pin router  tables, and sliding tables.  Sliding tables are a unique table that offers
a very clever sliding miter much like a sliding table on a table saw.  These tables eliminate
the need for a coping sled and are top quality if your thinking about cutting a lot of stiles
and rails.  All these tables fetch higher prices but are also jam packed with features and
dust collection.  Most but not all, are made of aluminum but are larger and incorporate
unique features.
Average prices (new)

Small Benchtops                  $69 to $129
Larger Benchtops                $89 to $169
Full Size                               $129 to $300
Advanced                             $350 and up
FAQ’s

1.        Can you buy large tops with no mitre slots?
Yes you can, you might have to look harder or ask for some custom work.  Having the
slot is not all bad, you may advance later down the line.

2.        Whats better Aluminum or Acrylic inserts?
Some people claim aluminum does not flex at all.  I have never seen an acrylic insert flex,
so it would come down to user preference.  There is a price difference.

3.        What are the larger routers used for?
Larger routers are generally used for heavier duty applications.  However I can get
everything done that needs to be done with my 2 HP router.  The key is not to take large
chunks at a time but to take small passes with small amounts.  If you do this large routers
do not have the advantage.  Larger routers are good if you need features that larger
routers have such as speed control.  You would want that if you use large diameter
router bits.

4.        How heavy is a standard 1 ½ thick large top?
The top weighs about 48 pounds

5.        What kind of lamination should I look for?
You want a high quality horizontal work surface laminate.  Another good fact is to find out
if it has been vacum pressed.  Laminate applied this way has superior holding power.

6.        Who makes the best tops?
Look for a manufacture that you feel comfortable with (their reputation).  Just because
the popular catalog merchants carry all the different brands does not make them the
best, they are the merely the best marketed tables.   Look for someone that you can ask
questions too, if they are a salesman, then the chances are not good they are
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